Eating and drinking, London, Things to do now

Gelupo: London’s new favourite gelateria

It used to be London’s best-kept secret, but this week, Gelupo – Soho’s celebrated ice-cream parlour – has burst out into the open. Formerly, only the initiated knew of Jacob Kenedy’s gelateria discreetly hidden away in Archer Street. But now that the flagship has opened at Cambridge Circus – where Charing Cross Road and Shaftesbury Avenue intersect – there’ll be no escaping the sweet temptation.


The secret’s out: Gelupo now occupies a prime location

It’s gelato in the best Italian tradition – authentic, well-made, and laudably free from American-style gimmickry: all you get is straight-up, honest flavours. The chocolate sorbet is so wonderfully soft you want to bathe in it; blood orange has an exciting zest perfect for a hot summer afternoon, and in a nod to English palates, kiwi, elderflower and gin has a gentle zing.

Jacob Kenedy and his business partner Victor Hugo have great plans

Jacob Kenedy and his business partner Victor Hugo have great plans

Combining such culinary mastery with a prime location – who doesn’t pass this junction on their Soho sorties? – Gelupo Cambridge Circus is bound to become a favourite London hangout. And there’s more to come: Kenedy and his business partner Hugo are about to open a brand-new street food restaurant on the same site. It’s a welcome antidote to the new McDonald’s just across the road.

Cliché has it that Soho is losing its soul and falling victim to global forces. That this location has gone to two local lads should give us cause for joy.

On reflection

So long, Soho?

So, Madame Jojo –  one of Soho’s longest-serving cabarets – is closing its doors, at least for now. Sounds like a bouncer lost his cool and went after a punter with a baseball bat. Westminster Council went nuclear and withdrew the cabaret’s licence straight away. Neither did the landlord tarry. Soho Estates, the company of late sleaze-merchant Paul Raymond, had already repossessed the venue by the time the news came out. It was all over before anyone could say peep, just like a summary execution, Moscow circa 1935. They say Madame Jojo’s is set to reopen in a new building replacing the current one at Walker’s Court. Developers pretend to do us all a favour: they hold their nose at the current “seedy” atmosphere in this tiny patch of central London. Surely, we all deserve better? But something tells me the only people who’ll hang out in the new, “glamorous” cabaret will be Russian oligarchs and Chinese rich kids drinking cocktails at stupid prices. The retail area will soon show up in selfies shot by fat Nebraskans in their fannypcks. But fear not: the new Walker’s Court will end the disgusting spectacle of sub-optimal profits.


The way things used to be

The way things used to be


If this weren’t the UK, I’d say the demented bouncer was in the pay of the London property mafia, his job to give the Council an excuse to kick out a tenant who was getting in the way of the area’s gentrification. But the truth is, in Britain, nothing gets in the way of gentrification anyway – you don’t need a hired thug to make it happen. Cash is king, the law protects the rich: if  you wave  enough shekels, this country is your bitch. There’s only one difference between the developers, the council and the street whores they look down on: the hookers are more honest and not quite so greedy.


The view Berwick Street reveals the monstrosity to ist full extent

The view Berwick Street reveals the monstrosity to its full extent